Chiang Khong, a small cozy place on the Mekong, is my last destination in Thailand. Here they just opened the fourth friendship bridge to Laos. Alan Bates is a world record holder for cycling around the globe and has a guesthouse here. Seems like the place to stay, but he is not home. So he missed me:-).

The Mekong river

Getting into Laos was no more problems than filling out the visa papers and paying your 35 USD. I skipped Houaxay the bordertown in Laos and went straight on. This is the north of Laos and pretty wild, it feels like stepping back in time. There are mostly tribal people living here which are quite poor. They live in bamboo huts on poles. I also don’t see many machines, most of the work is still done manually. Altough live looks hard here they seem to be pretty content with it. All the small kids run up to the road, when I pass by, to wave at me and the older ones just wave and say hello. The Lao people have a very laid back attitude.


The north is basically mountains and dense forest, very beautiful. The temperatures are a bit lower here, which for me is an added bonus. Not stopping in the bordertown was not smart, I know now. Coming from Thailand where food is evrywhere available, made me a bit lazy. This part of Laos is quite empty and the few shops I passed don’t have much to sell. Of course I found something in the end but it is something to keep in mind. There is no problem of getting bottles of water tough.


Always bring some bananas.


I’m cycling on Highway 13, a road from north to south through Laos and passing all major cities.  My kind of route  on the way to Cambodia. In the north the road quality is very bad. The stretches over the higher mountains have no asphalt anymore and the rest has alot of holes. I do meet some fellow cyclers here, but hey this is the only road.

  Altough not the easiest part of the route it is the most intresting till now. The countryside is basically jungle and some rubber and coffee plantations.


 The scenery is beautifull


 Plenty of water buffalo’s in Laos.




Cave entrance

The road brings me to Luang Prabang. The first city I meet with some decent guesthouses and good food. I stay an extra day here.  The city is famous for it’s old temples, but I didn’t look much at them. My resting day was more important at the moment. And for this Luang Prabang is also perfect.

Hopefully the rest was enough , because the next days will be alot of climbing. After the big climbs the lanscape becomes quite strange looking with all the limestone rocks. Also many caves.

Slowly the big hills disappear and the route flattens out towards Vientiane, the capital. This city I pass, because I cann’t waste too much time anymore. Visa is only valid for 30 days and I want to reach the Cambodian border cycling.

The way south is now flat and the route 13, the main route, has decent asphalt. But I get off once in a while to stay closer to the Mekong and then roads are not good anymore. Unhardened in different states of bad and passing streams over wobbly bridges and sometimes no bridges. (wade through)


Very dusty


Close to the Cambodian border are the “4000 islands”. On the biggest, Don Khong, I stayed for two days. If I had more time I would have made some boattrips to the other islands and maybe see some sweet water dolphins. And above all do alot of nothing, the speciality here.

The route till now in Laos.


Route till now:
Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Sapphaya, Nakhon Sawan, Phitsanulok, Sukothai, Uttaradit, Den Chai, Lampang, Doi Khun Tan, Chiang Mai, Chiang Dao.


The route is basicaly flat, before Lampang you have to cross three hills wich are a bit challeging. After Lampang the road is a bit hilly but not too bad. Though if you go off the main route prepare for some heavy climbing, but definitely worth it, nice views and very quit. I met some elephants on one such trip. They went crazy seeing me on my bike. Don’t come too close.

This trained elephant was no problem.

Soaked up some Thai history along the way in Ayutthaya and Sukothai. Historic sites here are excellent to do by bicycle, no need to walk around all day long.

Sukothai historic park



In Sukothai they were busy preparing for Loi Krathon, the full moon party. They say it originated here, so they make it a week long party. I was in Chiang Mai when the feast started but there it only was a mere three days. Everybody writes they’re good wishes on a Krathon, small boat made of banana leaves, and floats them in the river or they write it on a small hot air balloon made of rice paper and floats it in the air. Everywhere lights to see.

Lights go up, mostly done by temples.

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Three nights of parades through the city.

Just passed the 1000 km marker. Thoughts on biking Thailand are quit positive. There are no bicycle paths or routes but traffic is generally relaxed and save. Mostly there is a big shoulder on the road and if not they give you space. The food you can buy along the road is insanely good. I don’t always know wat it is but it never disapoints. The very dirty looking ones are the best in my experience. The only time I had some stomach problems was after a resaurant diner in Chiang Mai.



The route through Thailand.

New blog, New trip

Hello and welcome to my new bike travelling site.

The language will be English here because not everybody intrested can read Dutch. I will try to make some pieces on my Dutch site in Dutch.
Everybody can also comment on blog posts, see at the top of each post (Leave a comment). It will be appreciated and I will definitely follow it and react when required. Remember I’m not always online, so it can take some time for me to react.
This short introduction ends here, so let’s go biking!

South East Asia is the region where I will be biking through.
Rough plan at the moment: start in Bangkok go up north to Laos then east to Vietnam then back south again and through Cambodia back to Bangkok. If there is some time left I would also like to go visit some beaches in the south of Thailand. Currently I’m making a list of places I should visit, like Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and nice stretches to bike over. Leave a comment if you have a must see location or any other great idea. I will publish my list when I know a bit more.

But let me start at the beginning.
Flying to Bangkok was the easiest (read: cheapest) way to go there to start my trip. I was flying with Emirates which had no extra charge for a bicycle. They also did not require a box to put it in, they do prefer it though, and the bike survived the trip without a scratch, Wow!

Bangkok airport is about 20 km from the city. It was just dark and the road to the city was busy and I had no clue how to go myself. There is a direct train connection, but they don’t allow bicycles on it. The taxidrivers however are very willing to take me.

Bangkok by night
Bangkok by night

I stayed only two nights and didn’t see a lot of this incredible big city full of energy. But I will be back here in a couple of months.

The best way to leave the city I think is by train but there is no station near my hotel, so I decided to bike out of Bangkok. Finding my way through the very busy and big city was quite a challenge. It was strange that I never felt unsafe, the traffick here is quite friendly. No honking or middlefingers and if there is no space for cars to pass me they wait till there is space. But mind you if you wanna do sightseeing on your bike. There is no space for that, you have to go along with the traffick.